All You Need to Know About the DIY of Blinds

April 30th, 2018 in All About Blinds

Most of us have had some experience of attempting some form of DIY, anything from hanging a picture to assembling furniture. It can be tricky, baffling, fiddly or downright frightening at times to consider delving into your toolbox and starting a project. Well it doesn’t have to be! In this post we’ll take a look at how you can find that untapped DIY potential and install your own blinds, with your own fair hands.

We’ve had our own fair share of DIY misadventures and learning experiences, so here we’ll do our best to guide you through just how simple the process can actually be.

So square those shoulders, grab those tools and prepare to become a champion blinds installer!

1. Deciding Where to Install – Recess or Exact?

The first thing you’ll need to think about (after choosing what blind you think would look best, of course) is precisely where you’re going to fit it. This is usually pretty straightforward – most of the time you’re only thinking about whether to fit inside the recess our outside – but sometimes there are things that can get in the way or otherwise affect where you might be able to fit brackets.

Our measuring guide details how to measure for each type of fitting

Inside the recess (‘recess’ fitting) is recommended for most blinds most of the time, and most customers agree that a blind installed inside the recess is more aesthetically pleasing. In some cases though there are problems fitting something inside that space – a lack of space or other fittings in the way – and some people just prefer the look of something fitted outside the recess (‘exact’ fitting). Here are a few things that might help you to decide which to go for, if you’re unsure.

1.1. Can You Fit the Brackets Inside the Recess?


Face Fixing


Most of our blinds use brackets that need to be screwed onto a flat surface, and most are universal enough to be able to choose how you attach them. There are limitations on where brackets can be attached though, and this needs to be considered before choosing where you’ll fit the blind.

All of the blinds will come with brackets that can either be top-fixed or face-fixed, and a few can be side-fixed as well.

A note on top-fixing – some lintels are made of particularly dense concrete or steel, which can be VERY difficult to drill holes into. We’ll look at how you can do so later on in the post, but for the most part we’d recommend against it unless you really have to.

Equally, for face-fixing, we wouldn’t recommend it if the windows are still under warranty, because that could be invalidated by attaching anything directly to them.

If you genuinely can’t do any of the above, then it would be best to fit outside the recess.

1.2. Is the Recess Deep Enough?

Most recesses will be deep enough to fit blinds inside, but some can be shallower than usual so do check first

By ‘depth’ we’re referring to the distance to the back of the recess, of course. How far the blind ‘sticks out’ from back to front will dictate whether you can fit that blind inside the recess or not, we usually call this the headrail depth. If you think your recess isn’t particularly deep, then check out the below table of headrail depths for all our blinds to see if you have enough space.

Again, if you don’t, you’ll probably have to consider fitting outside the recess instead.

1.3. Vents & Handles

It’s best to check for any obstructions in the window as well that can affect how much depth you have available in the recess. The most common tend to be things like trickle vents and window handles.

The easiest way to check is to take 2 measurements – one from the window frame to the front of the recess, then one from the window frame to the front of the obstruction. Take the latter away from the former to see how much depth you have, and again refer to the above list of headrail depths to see if the blind has enough space to fit in. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to go for exact fitting.

1.4. Sash Windows

Designs for sash windows vary, there can be any number of windows inside the decorative frame

Sash windows are still a common sight in many homes, and as beautifully decorative and bright as they are, they can cause a bit of confusion when it comes to fitting window dressings.

The inside of the recess usually isn’t an option for sash windows, partly because all the decorative framing makes sizeable flat surfaces pretty rare, but also because of a lack of depth. The main feature of a sash window is that the lower half of the window opens vertically, sliding over the top half of the window. Because of this, any free space (depth) at the top of the window is immediately filled as the window is opened, meaning there’s only space to fit anything there if the window is never opened.

For the most part, the best thing to do is going to be to take a look at the decorative outer frame around the outside of the window recess. Between all the fancy shaping and bevelling there will usually be a sizeable flat area of frame, and you can attach brackets directly onto this to fit your blind.

Brackets can be face-fixed directly to the flat part of this decorative outer frame

If you choose to fit like this, then despite the fact that the blinds won’t be inside the recess, we’d still recommend choosing recess fitting when you order.

1.5. Inward Openers & Doorways

If your window opens inwards, then you’re most likely going to have to fit your blinds outside the recess. Generally speaking there simply isn’t enough vertical space above the opening window to fit the components of a blind, no matter how slimline the design.

One consideration might be to change tack altogether and choose a different style of blind to what you might have been considering, if you really don’t want to mount the blind outside the recess. Our Conservatory blinds range is perfect for uPVC windows with a rubber bead, which describes most modern, double-glazed windows.

Our gorgeous conservatory range is ideal if you need to fit to a PVC window without drilling any holes or using any screws!

These tend to work just as well for PVC doors too, allowing you to fit a blind directly into the glass panel of the door without making any holes. More conventional blind-types can be fitted directly to the door if you so wish, but remember to consider whether there’s any space between the door and the wall of the recess, when the door’s open:

Top-down view of an opening door

If you choose to fit something onto the face of the door then try to aim for products that stand out the least from the surface – pleated blinds and aluminium Venetian blinds are particularly good for this reason.

1.6. BiFold Doors

BiFold doors come in all shapes and sizes but tend to be very wide

BiFold doors are truly beautiful and offer stunning panoramic views and endless brightness – but they can be a real pain to find good blinds for! There really aren’t too many practical options here, but you can find some; vertical blinds inside the door recess or curtains outside the recess are by far the most practical if you want to cover the whole space in one go, but we’d recommend – if the doors are uPVC rather than aluminium – our ClickFit blinds. Just like our conservatory range, these blinds are designed for fitting without screws and will move with the door panels as they open, so those are the easiest choice.

Check out our vertical blinds range

Check out our curtains range

Check out our ClickFit blinds range

2. Measuring

We won’t delve too far into measuring here, because we have an excellent measuring guide on the site already (click the pic above to take a look!). It’s a broad guide though, so below are a few general pointers we think you ought to be aware of when taking your measurements. Before that though, a few things you’ll need and/or find useful to have with you when measuring:

  1. A tape measure (I suppose that goes without saying…)
  2. A pen or pencil for marking out where you’ve measured
  3. Masking tape; You can stick strips of this over where you’re making your pencil marks, to avoid making marks on window frames or walls
  4. A spirit level; non-essential, but useful. Use it to check that the area you’re planning to fit blinds to is level. NOTE: If you’re measuring for shutters, then a spirit level really IS essential!

Moving on, here are some useful things to know or to bear in mind when taking your measurements:

2.1. Use a metal tape measure

Fabric and plastic tape measures don’t really cut the mustard; On the one hand they don’t often extend out to as high a measurement as metal ones, but moreover they have a tendency to stretch and warp, which could make your measurement inaccurate – to the extent that your blinds won’t fit as intended, if at all.

2.2. Pay attention to any obstructions in the area you’re measuring and factor them in accordingly

This is particularly important if you’re measuring your recess; elements like skirting boards, picture rails, tiles etc., can narrow your recess considerably at the point they’re placed. For the width in particular, make sure you’re measuring inside these areas and not ignoring them. In the above example you can see both tiles at the bottom of the window and a picture rail toward the top – you’d measure the width between each of these areas and use the narrowest to order.

If you’re ordering wooden blinds, we’d recommend you give us a call to order for a space like this. The pelmet of a wooden blind is cut separately to the blind itself, so you could ask us for the pelmet to match the width at the top of the recess while the blind matches the narrowest point, that way there won’t be a gap either side of the pelmet up at the top of the window.

If you’re ordering shutters, then it’s bad news – fitting a shutter into a space that isn’t flat and even all the way around would mean either doing some serious filling of gaps, or removing any obstacles in the recess altogether (which would mean re-plastering and redecorating the recess when you’re done, lots of work).

Rollers are also a little different in a space like this – our measuring guide says:

Top Tip: Measuring for your roller blind is slightly different because the overall width of the blind including the brackets is approx. 3.5cm wider than the fabric. With this in mind you can choose to measure from where the brackets will sit (‘bracket to bracket’) or the area the fabric will cover (‘fabric width’).

That means that if the difference between the very top of the recess (where the brackets will be placed, the widest part of the blind) and the narrowest point is less than around 3cm, you should still be able to use the width at the very top of the recess to order. Which reminds me…

2.3. The best place to measure for a roller blind is at the exact location you want to install the brackets

Most of the time, the top part of the recess is not going to be a great deal wider than the bottom (there’s always some small variance in every recess). This is important to bear in mind with roller blinds, because you want it to fit nice and tight where the brackets are installed to ensure the best fit and minimal gaps down the sides where the fabric is narrower. And because you’ll almost always be fitting the brackets up at the very top of the recess, this is the best width measurement to use to order the blind, as long as you’ve checked for obstructions in the recess, as per section 2.2 above.

2.4. Measuring to fit more than one blind on the window is easier than it seems

If your window is just too wide to have your perfect blind (we can make ’em big, but there are limits to the sizes we can do, which vary across blind types) then you might consider ordering more than one, to fit beside each other. Usually if the window is that large, it’ll be split into multiple panes.

The best rule to follow here is not necessarily to match the number of blinds to the number of windows – it’s to match even with even and odd with odd. Try to minimise the number of blinds you’re fitting into the space so that you don’t get overrun with cords and controls – so whether there are two, four or six panes in the window, try to get two blinds to fit. If there are three, five or seven, go for 3 blinds. This is because there will always be a small gap between the blinds when fitted, and really you want the window frame to be behind that gap, not glass.

Measuring is pretty easy too. If there are an even number of panes in the window, check to see whether the central divide is exactly in the middle of the space. If it is (it usually is) then just measure the whole recess wall-to-wall, split that measurement in half, and order two blinds, both as recess fitting.

If there are an odd number of panes, or an even number that are different widths, then it’s only a little different. In that case measure for each width individually, starting at one wall of the recess. Measure over to the centre of the frame where you’d like the blinds to meet, make a pencil mark, then measure from there over to the centre of the next frame or to the wall. Top Tip: Stick a little masking tape to the frame where you want to make a mark, so you’re not getting marks on the window frame.

Vary the fitting type you choose for each of the three blinds to make sure there aren’t excessive gaps between them: 1. Recess 2. Exact 3. Recess

3. Installation

First off, let’s not forget that there are individual fitting guides for each of the blinds on the website, tailored to that blind, that you can view instantly in .pdf format or download for later viewing. We also email these same instructions to you when you place the order, AND a hard copy is included in the box when the blind arrives.

Find the fitting guide by clicking into the ‘buy page’ of the blind you want, then scrolling down the page a little

So we won’t go into exhaustive detail here over how to install each type of blind. Rather, we’ll look at a few general tips and advice on using the tools you’ll need to install your new blinds, alongside some common pitfalls and problems. Before that though, here’s a list of the bits and pieces you’ll either need, or at least find useful, for fitting. If you’ll be wanting to put your blinds up as soon as you get them, then check through this list and go grab anything you’re missing before the blinds arrive:

  1. A decent drill with a hammer setting. Probably the most affordable selection here will be plug-in versions rather than battery operated, as they usually have the power you need without the hefty price-tag. And the hammer setting is a bit of a deal-breaker – the rotary setting on a drill is best reserved for when you’re using screwdriver bits, the hammer setting is there for when you’re drilling through tough masonry
  2. A cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver, or screwdriver bits for your drill
  3. Masking tape. Sticking a piece of masking tape over the area you’ll be drilling into will protect the paintwork when you’re marking out your screw holes, it’ll also help to prevent your drill bit from slipping when you start drilling
  4. A decent hammer
  5. A spirit level; making sure things are straight and level is so much easier with one of these
  6. Ideally a spare stock of screws and rawl plugs, suitable for the surface you’ll be fitting brackets to; Most of the time we’ll send those with the blinds, but even when we do they’re only standard fittings and not necessarily the best option for where you’re fitting (more on this later on)

And wherever possible, certainly if you’re not too experienced with DIY:

  • Help; there’s no shame in calling in a second pair of hands, as it will be one of the most useful things to have with you, for all manner of reasons! NOTE: If you’re installing shutters, then we very strongly recommend making it a two-person job, due to the weight and bulk of shutters

OK, so let’s work through some pointers and pitfalls:

3.1. Prep!

Everyone always says it, we all smile and nod and agree, then we crack on anyway. Genuinely, the way to staying stress free is making sure everything that needs to be out of the way is out of the way, and that you have everything you need, ready and waiting, before you start. There are few things more rage-inducing than getting half way through a DIY job and realising you’re missing something or you’ve gotten something wrong.

One of the main things to check in advance is whether you have the correct fittings for the surface you’ll be fitting the blind to. If you’re going to be attaching brackets to plasterboard, PVC, wood or anything else that isn’t plain-old brick and mortar, then we’d suggest popping to your local hardware store and checking with them which screws and other fittings would be best to use, as we don’t send a selection of different ones, and the ones you receive from us may not necessarily be the best for you.

Drill bits are the other thing to check – if you do go to get more screws then make sure you ask about the drill bits to use for them as well. The main point here though is to make sure that you’ve got at least a small range of different sizes, ranging from size 4 to size 8, to make sure you can drill a hole that’s the best fit for your fittings. NOTE: If you’ve a bit of cash to spare (no more than a few pounds) then it might also be worth picking up a selection of HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bits in different sizes too; these are essential if it turns out you have a steel lintel above the window, which is usually very difficult to determine before you start drilling. More on steel lintels later.

3.2. Check your blinds before you start installing

There are a few elements to our products that make them stand out from others, most notably the made-to-measure nature of them.

We aim for perfection with every single order, but every once in a while things go wrong, it’s unavoidable. Check the size of the blind as soon as you unpack it, and make sure it matches what you ordered; if you’ve accidentally mis-measured, or we’ve made a mistake in manufacturing, you don’t want to be discovering that half way through the installation – or worse, after you’ve already made holes for the brackets and fittings! If there’s any doubt over whether the blind is right for that space then get in touch and we’ll go through the details with you and help where we can.

3.3. Make sure you’re fitting in the same location as you measured

It may sound obvious, but especially for those who aren’t fitting the blind inside a recess, it’s absolutely essential that you make sure your installation matches where you measured. Trying to fit something higher or lower than where your measurement was taken, or off to the side, is likely to result in stressful and unnecessary correction work.

3.4. Use rawlplugs!

They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, colours and designs, but in almost all cases they’re essential. Rawlplugs are designed to be anchors for the screw you’re putting in; make a hole, insert a rawlplug, then screw the screw into that – the screw will not only gouge into the plastic of the plug and bite into it securely, at the same time it will force the plug to expand, squeezing it tighter into the hole and ensuring a really tight, solid fitting. Installing into any plastered surface without these will almost definitely result in an unreliable and short-lasting installation, as the hard metal screw will quickly wear down the brick around it and become loose. A plug prevents that from happening.

A good tip is to make your hole using a drill bit that’s a smaller diameter than the plug – the tighter you can make the arrangement the better!

3.5. Plasterboard

Plasterboard is just soft, composite wood sheets, textured to allow plaster to adhere better to their surface. It’s fixed onto walls and ceilings to provide a better surface to plaster onto, usually only ending up an inch or so thick with the plaster applied, with a solid wall behind it.

Sometimes though plasterboard is applied to a frame of some sort with no solid surface behind it, often when creating partition walls inside the house or when creating a ceiling surface. If the wall sounds more hollow when you knock on it than when you knock on brick, then it’s probably plasterboard. We’d recommend against trying to fit brackets directly onto plasterboard, because it just doesn’t have as much strength as other surfaces.

If you’re forced to then make sure you have some rawlplugs that are designed for the job – ordinary ones run the risk of ripping a big hole in the plaster if too much weight is put on them. Pop to your local hardware store and ask for plugs that work best with plasterboard. Top Tip: Give us a call to place your order – distributing the weight of the blind as much as possible is the best way to ensure it doesn’t come crashing down in the middle of the night, so we can usually send you some extra brackets to fit up and spread the weight around more, by request.

3.6. OMG! RSJ!

RSJ stands for ‘rolled steel joist’, or a steel lintel, and it’s the bane of blind-fitting. If you’re drilling up into the top of the recess and the drill bit sinks through the plaster an inch or so then suddenly won’t go any further, the likelihood is that you have an RSJ installed.

Two important things to note here – firstly don’t panic, you can still install. Secondly, you’re probably going to ache a bit afterwards.

On the first point, check around to see if it’s possible for you to fit the brackets differently but in the same general spot (so your measurements aren’t affected). If you’re fitting into a recess and you can side-fix or face-fix the brackets, do that. If you can’t, and you’ve no choice but to keep going, you can still go through it – it just won’t be easy, physically speaking.

First off, if you didn’t get any HSS drill bits, don’t bother trying to continue until you get some. High Speed Steel bits are coated with titanium to prevent them from wearing down almost instantly while trying to drill through solid steel, which is what will happen to other drill bits if you try.

Next, go get a cup of water (room temperature, not cold) and have that by you.

Attach a HSS bit to the drill, take a deep breath, and make a start on drilling. Let’s be frank – this is going to be a long, uncomfortable job. A fresh, new HSS bit is probably going to bite through the steel lintel quite easily on the first go, as its edges are still nice and sharp and it’s still cold. Don’t let that lull you into a false sense of security though; as that bit whizzes around, biting into the steel, the extreme friction will start to make it REALLY hot, which means it will soften.

Dip the drillbit into the water and hold it there for 10 seconds or so to cool down, then move onto your next screw-hole. This time you’ll probably meet a LOT more resistance, as the bit has been blunted a little and, despite being cooled in the water, has inevitably softened a little. This time, getting through is going to take a lot more time and a lot more energy, so much so that it’s tempting to give up after a while! Press on though, push against that drill as much as you can, making sure you dip the drill bit back in the water every ten or fifteen seconds to cool it, and you’ll eventually get through. Depending on how many holes you need to drill you may well be exhausted afterwards, but you’ll get there.

4. And Relax…

And that, as they say, is that. Once everything’s fitted and the tools are packed away it’s time to get the kettle on and enjoy your handiwork.

We hope all this has been of some use to you, and of course feel free to share any of your own tips or DIY stories in the comments!

meet Mark

About the author

62 thoughts on “All You Need to Know About the DIY of Blinds

  1. Hi was interested in your article I did fit blinds before and had a gard job with the lintel I used an ordinary hammer drill with masonry but but didn’t drill as deep as I should have. How do I know if it’s a concrete or steel lintel ? Thanks

    • Hi Dan! Unfortunately there isn’t really a reliable way to tell until you start drilling, so the best thing really would be to have the bits and pieces we mentioned handy (for future installations), just in case.

  2. If I’m installing a roller blind outside the recess above the window onto a, preinstalled wooden batten which is 45mm in height will the 55mm brackets fit? I’ve been told the screw holes are about 40mm apart in hieght(32mm pole) and don’t mind the brackets slightly overlapping as long as the screws fit in height properly. If not, I may have to fit it below or in the recess which I’d rather not do. Thanks

    • Hi Danny! Yes those measurements sound about right, provided your width is going to be less than around 2m (in which case we might need to use a bigger tube with bigger brackets supplied); there’ll be some small amount of variance depending on which blind you choose but not enough to cause an issue 🙂

    • Hi. I’m about to buy rollerblinds for outside recess fitting. Its an old sash window with a wooden frame all round. If the bracket needs minimum 40mm to fix it will have to go above the top baton. How much clearance does the blind have from the wall? It will have to pass over the wooden frame if its fitted above the baton into the wall. Many thanks.

    • Hi Chris! Typically there isn’t a huge amount of clearance behind the fabric when rolled as standard (1-2cm usually) but if you make sure you fit the blind at least 50mm above the top of the baton and then ‘reverse roll’ it – the instructions for which are included in the PDF fitting guide we send with the order – then this will provide ample clearance. ‘Standard roll’ is where the fabric falls down behind the roller tube, bringing the fabric closer to the window for increased privacy. ‘Reverse roll’ has the fabric falling down in front of the roller, giving you more space behind the fabric. Hope that helps!

  3. Hi – what size screws do you send with your Venetian blinds? It will help me to select the correct drill bit. I have in the past drilled too big a hole and then it’s an awful job fitting the screws:(

    • Hi Philip – it’s really the Rawl plugs that you need to make sure are nice and tight, and since there are a couple of different designs that get sent out your best bet is to compare your drillbits to the width of the plugs you receive and go slightly smaller. If you make too small a hole then you can easily widen it with the next size up drillbit

  4. Thanks Mark – it turned out to be a steel beam over the window so no rawl plugs needed! I now have roman (not sure why i said venetian) blinds firmly in place but they are hanging unevenly. The right side (by chain) is hanging lower despite following the tip in the installation instructions. They hang evenly when fully dropped but pull up less on the right hand side and then are lopsided!

    • Hi Philip, I can see that our customer service team have been in touch with some ideas on how to troubleshoot this issue, so I’m hoping you’ve had some success there. If not, just drop the team a line and we’ll get it sorted out.

  5. Just received and fitted a cordless thermal blind in my grandson’s right room. Instructions are straightforward for fitting into recess and all done.
    However…….. there are clear plastic pieces which I assume fit to the bottom rail, but there are no instructions with them to show how they fit. I did try and fit one of them, but they will not go over the rail and I am concerned that I will either break them or scratch the paint on the rail.
    I can’t find anything on your website that describes them.
    Help required please.


    • Hi John, if you pop a photo over to our support team of the item you’re looking at then they’ll be able to identify it and provide advice, or confirm that the part has been included in error.

    • I’ve figured it out. You latch the front part of plastic handle – the part with the two pieces sticking out – over the top front part of the base. The firmly click – push – the piece over the base of the long bottom part so the long flat back clicks to the rear. You need to be quite firm – is plastic so will bend a bit to fit on.

  6. Hi Mark,
    We are installing a blind but have hit a metal structure in the dry wall about a couple of inches from the window.
    We reloacated the hols 1/2 inch furthrer away from the window but hit the same problem.
    What could be the metal structure on the side of the window?

    • Hi Gaz – sorry but I couldn’t say for sure without looking at it. It’s most likely a support structure for the window alcove hidden under the plaster, but whether it will be too thick to drill through I couldn’t say. You could try following our advice for fixing screws into steel lintels, but it might be safer to get a qualified fitter to help in this case.

  7. Hi I have vertical blinds with split opening but the gap in the middle is too wide. Can I adjust them so the fit better when closed

    • Hi Helen, that doesn’t sound right – if you get in touch with our customer service team and pop them some pictures then we’ll take a look and see what we can do to sort that out.

  8. I have happily installed two out of three roman blinds but the third doesn’t descend completely. I’ve tried adjusting the cords but the central one seems much tighter and I can’t work out how to unwind some more of the cord that I can see on the spindle. Any top tips gratefully received.

    • Hi Richard, that sounds like there may be a fault with the spindle, but it’s hard to say without seeing it. If you pop our customer service team some photos of what you’ve described here we’ll let you know what can be done to sort this out.

    • Hi there! Not necessarily but it depends on how well your drill and bit are performing – a new HSS drillbit will be nice and sharp so should go through the joist without having to use the hammer setting, but once it starts to soften or blunt then you’ll probably find you need the extra ‘oomph’ that the hammer setting gives you.

  9. Hi, I am looking to install a vertical blind 130inch width into the window frame. Pvc. Can you recommend what screw is appropriate and if it comes with the blinds? Thanks

    • Hi, we only send general-purpose screws with the order as we don’t know what surface you’ll be fitting into; generally speaking we don’t recommend screwing the brackets directly onto the window frame, but if you have no choice then your best bet is to pop to your local hardware store and grab a pack of either wood screws or self-tapping screws.

  10. Hi there,

    I am struggling to install my roman blinds due to either the lintel in my window recesses. I am not sure if it is a steel lintel or concrete lintel. I have drilled through an inch of plasterboard and then into the metal or concrete. How to I now make the fitting secure as If it goes in the plasterboard it is too weak but if I go into the metal or concrete the screw would need to be too long.

    Please help me with this issue. Thanks.

    • Hi Calum. The best option really is to get through that lintel, you’ll just have to grab yourself some longer screws in order to finish the fitting. The alternative would be to send you additional brackets, so that you can fit more and spread the weight across the width of the blind (I’d recommend in that case grabbing some different Rawl plugs more suitable for use in plasterboard), but personally I’d avoid this as any heavy-handed use of the blind might still pull it down.

  11. I am about to buy a small (90cm W x 105 H) roller blind. Because of the quirky position of the window and the position of security wires/boxes, I can only fix the brackets to the top of the recess which is tiled with thick tiles. Can I glue the brackets to the tiles?

    • Hi David, there are some strong glues out there but nevertheless I still wouldn’t recommend fixing the blind up with anything other than the recommended fittings. There are specific drillbits available to drill through tiles, and lots of helpful tutorials out there on the internet that will guide you through the best way to do it, so in all honesty that’s where I’d start.

  12. Hi, I’ve also hit a hard bit and there don’t seem to be metal shavings so is this likely to be concrete? (Top-fitted blinds in recess). If so which drill bit and setting do I need? Thanks

    • Hi Sarah – if the lintel is concrete then yes it can be tough to get through it, but you just need to make sure that: 1. your drill has enough power (cordless drills generally don’t have the necessary power, whereas even cheap plug-in drills are usually strong enough); 2. you’re using your drill’s hammer setting; 3. you’re using a fresh masonry drillbit. As long as you’re using all that then simply persist – have the drill set to a low speed to stop the bit heating up too quickly and to keep the hole nice and neat, you should be able to go through to the depth needed to fit your Rawl plugs in. Hope that helps!

  13. Hi there, we just got our new electric blinds (3 in total) and 1 blind doesn’t go all the way up, it stops about an inch short compared to the others? Also they seem to overrun by somewhere between and inch and 2 inches, is there anyway of adjusting both these settings? Regards Jason

    • Hi Jason, it sounds like the ‘stop points’ just need reprogramming, which is straightforward to do. If you get in touch with our customer service team we’ll be able to pop you a guide that describes what to do.

    • Hi Pauline, we wouldn’t necessarily recommend fitting the brackets for your blind directly onto uPVC, but if it’s the only surface you have available to fit to then it’s certainly possible. The only thing I’d add is that the screws we send with the order wouldn’t be the best for uPVC, so I’d also pop to your local hardware store and pick up some self-tapping screws.

  14. What are the brackets you supply made of? Some shops sell DIY blinds with all plastic fittings which, from reviewers comments on other sites, are not very strong. You don’t say what your fitting brackets are made of (unless I missed it!). Please do say.

    • Hi Linda, it can vary based on which blinds you order, but for anything you have to screw into the wall or lintel to install, the fittings will be metal. Hope that helps!

  15. Hi I’ve had vertical blinds fitted but the bot blind is sitting on the weight bind at the bottom how do I get it down?
    Kind regards

    • Hi Jane, sorry to hear you’re having issues but if you haven’t already, just drop our customer service team a line and they’ll be able to help out.

  16. Hi, i can’t seem to fit the control end of the blind into the bracket. Not sure if i’m doing anything wrong? The clips on the end of the blind are too narrow for the spaces in the bracket. It’s a roller blind.

    • Hi Matthew, so sorry to hear you’re having issues. Your message has been passed on to the customer service team and someone will be in touch.

    • Hi Victoria, yes, in theory, but the curtain pole/track would have to stand quite proud of the wall so that the curtains still sit in front of the blind. The best way of fitting for this pairing is to have the blind inside the recess and the curtains outside. If you can’t fit the blind into the recess though for whatever reason, then your curtain pole/track will need to be fitted with brackets that bring it out at least 50mm away from the wall, to provide clearance for the blind behind. Hope that helps!

  17. Hi I’ve got the tape on my wooden blind dirty and would like some advice on the best way to clean it without getting a water mark on it. Thank you.

    • Hi there – we usually recommend using a damp cloth and some gentle detergent, but make sure you get off as much dust as you can from the blind and tapes before cleaning. I’d also recommend cleaning all of the tapes on that blind, not just any marked ones, to avoid any inconsistency in colour.

    • Hi Sylvia, thanks for your message. There are a few more things to consider than just the measurements in this case, so if you get in touch with our customer service team they’ll be able to go through it with you in more detail.

  18. We measured and ordered blinds for inside recess mounting in our bathroom window. Outside the recess is tile and the inside is covered with uvpc trim. We now find that the trim covers from the edge of the tile over a cavity to the uvpc window frame where it is attached by glue. The problem is that the cavity cannot support the screws for the brackets and the trim itself does not seem strong enough. Could we screw or glue the bracket to the uvpc window frame?

    • Hi Rose, you can screw the brackets to the window frame directly (we wouldn’t recommend using glue, as even the strongest glue isn’t guaranteed to hold), but only if there’s no other way around it. The frame will hold the brackets just fine, but once it has holes in it those holes can’t be filled or covered, so it’s a bit of a last resort.

  19. Hi. I bought 3 blinds & 2 fitted fine. However I have a problem getting the 3rd blind rail to clip on the brackets. No matter what, it just won’t clip on. To make matters worse, one end did clip on & now won’t unclip & it’s in a recess. Help please!

    • Hi David, sorry to hear you’re having problems but I can’t find the order using the email address given here – if you haven’t already, get in touch with our customer service team and have a chat about what’s happening, we’ll be able to help.

  20. I’m having the top fitting rsj problem you mentioned and have had to give up. The blinds are the faux wood ones. Do you sell side fitting brackets for these separately?

  21. Just in the process of fitting three vertical blinds. My query is wrt the sting clip which should be fitted above 1.5m. The rotation plastic string length is easily adjusted by the small plastic connector but what to do with draw strings has me baffled

  22. Hi, I have a made to measure wooden blind, it has clear plastic things near the top, am I supposed to take these off, if bot what are they for?


    • Hi Lucy, it’s hard to advise without seeing precisely which parts you’re looking at, so just to be sure it would be a good idea to pop our customer service team a picture so we can advise further.

    • Hi Sheena, if you’re struggling to reinsert the decorative strips on the inside of the frame then firstly I’d say don’t worry too much about those, they’re optional and will be hidden behind the panels anyway. If you removed the ones at the front and they’re proving a little tight to slot back in then try holding them in place and, with a piece of cardboard over them to protect them, give them a tap with a hammer. If you’re still struggling or I’ve misinterpreted the issue then get in touch with our customer service team who’ll be more than happy to help.

  23. Hi Mark, Great blinds, very happy with them but for one thing…… they need more tension. When I try to stop the blind more than about a half way down the window it just keeps going. How do I stop the blind from unrolling itself under its own weight?

    • Hi Stephen, sorry to hear that. The best thing to do would be to contact our customer service and they’d be able to help. Thank you.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

CommentLuv badge